1,300 Spectators at the World Cup in Boulder
That. Was. Incredible!!
And also the first official climbing competition I've been to. As a volunteer and spectator, I got to see all of the work and effort leading up to the showy and brightly colored finals round. Climbers and crew alike worked to create tonight's final event, and it was awesome.
And also the first official climbing competition I've been to. As a volunteer and spectator, I got to see all of the work and effort leading up to the showy and brightly colored finals round. Climbers and crew alike worked to create tonight's final event, and it was awesome.
Sasha Digiulian, who took 7th over all.
Tonight 8 men and 8 women from 5 different countries competed in the first IFSC World Cup competition on US soil in 20 years. The comparison between the two events must be vast, with countless advances in the sport happening since 1991. Many of the competitors weren't even born yet.
Two final routes were put up at Movement gym, where each of the athletes would have one chance to get as far as they could before falling. Scoring is based on the last hold the climber touched, and how in control they were while touching it. More value is assigned to being on a hold and about to execute a move, than reaching out and barely touching it.
Two final routes were put up at Movement gym, where each of the athletes would have one chance to get as far as they could before falling. Scoring is based on the last hold the climber touched, and how in control they were while touching it. More value is assigned to being on a hold and about to execute a move, than reaching out and barely touching it.
Sachi Amma
The men's final route proved to be more exciting, with a sequence that most climbers solved with a backwards rotation or nearly upside-down flip. Matty Hong, first on the route, showed his skill with a nail-biting, jaw dropping 180 campus move. The French athletes also seemed to favor a dyno to a large horn, starting with Manuel Romain who lept to the under cling. Sachi Amma made good use of heel hooks while climbing to a definitive 2nd place, falling on move 34.
First place went to Jakob Schubert (Video here). This is his 6th World Cup victory in a row. Surprisingly, several men expected to give Jakob a run for his money fell early in the route. Sean McColl was one, not making the leap/campus/dyno move the French athletes did so well.
First place went to Jakob Schubert (Video here). This is his 6th World Cup victory in a row. Surprisingly, several men expected to give Jakob a run for his money fell early in the route. Sean McColl was one, not making the leap/campus/dyno move the French athletes did so well.
Maja Vidmar
On the ladies side, the route was less exciting but still exceptionally difficult, with most athletes coming off at the same move from under the roof up to a small crimp on the arete.
Sasha Digiulian, the only female US athlete to make it to finals, fell on said move and took 7th place over all.
Johanna Ernst, who had been climbing strong all weekend, managed to make it over the edge and fell 4 holds from the finish. On the way up she took a rest using an impressive Egyptian (Video here) Johanna took 1st for the women, and Mina Markovic took second.
Final Results
Men
1. Jakob Schubert
2. Sachi Amma
3. Romain Desgranges
4. Manuel Romain
5. Jorg Verhoeven
6. Matty Hong
7. Sean McColl
8. Ramon Puigbianaque
Women
1. Johanna Ernst
2. Mina Markovic
3. Momoka Oda
4. Maja Vedmar
5. Angela Eiter
6. Akiyo Noguchi
7. Sasha Digiulian
8. Charlotte Durif
Sasha Digiulian, the only female US athlete to make it to finals, fell on said move and took 7th place over all.
Johanna Ernst, who had been climbing strong all weekend, managed to make it over the edge and fell 4 holds from the finish. On the way up she took a rest using an impressive Egyptian (Video here) Johanna took 1st for the women, and Mina Markovic took second.
Final Results
Men
1. Jakob Schubert
2. Sachi Amma
3. Romain Desgranges
4. Manuel Romain
5. Jorg Verhoeven
6. Matty Hong
7. Sean McColl
8. Ramon Puigbianaque
Women
1. Johanna Ernst
2. Mina Markovic
3. Momoka Oda
4. Maja Vedmar
5. Angela Eiter
6. Akiyo Noguchi
7. Sasha Digiulian
8. Charlotte Durif
It was an amazing event, with much effort going into making it happen by the athletes, organizers and volunteers. A big thank you goes to Movement Gym, The American Alpine Club, North Face and Evolv Shoes for sponsoring the event.
Catch up on the Semi-Finals and the Quals.
Catch up on the Semi-Finals and the Quals.
Sean McColl
Charlotte Durif
