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IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup comes to Boulder

10/7/2011

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THIS weekend the World Cup Lead Climbing Competition comes to Boulder, the first Lead comp in the us since 1991. I scored the sweet gig of volunteering for the American Alpine Club in their sponsor tent, so I'll be up close and personal with all the action. I'll be posting pictures and video of the events this weekend, but in the mean time, here is a little info about the competition. 
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What? World Cup Competition for Lead Sport Climbing
Where? Movement Climbing Gym, Boulder CO
When? October 8-9, 2011
Schedule:
• 7 p.m. Friday: Opening ceremonies parade down Pearl Street (from 15th to 9th) followed by the IFSC World Cup Opening Ceremonies presented by The American Alpine Club
• 10 a.m. Saturday: Warm-up round/Qualifiers; 11:30 a.m. Saturday, Qualifiers
• 12 p.m. Sunday: Semi-Finals
• 7 p.m. Sunday: Finals with Award Ceremony to follow


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Sasha Diguilian
This weekend 67 athletes from 17 countries will come to compete in Boulder's Movement climbing gym. A complete list of registrants can be found on the IFSC site here. Notably among the competators is Angela Eiter, who won the World Cup in Arco after completing a move where the majority of women fell with an unexpected heel hook. The incredible video can be found here, with falls starting at 4:40. Also competing are Alex Johnson, Emily Harrington and Sasha Diguilian - a personal favorite of mine. Super tiny and super powerful, I saw her climb at the 2010 EMS UBC and was impressed by her ability to scrunch up on a small hold and explode to another twice her height away. She placed first in Arco for combined bouldering and lead results. 

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Jakob Schubert
On the men's side is Jakob Schubert, currently ranked number 1 by the IFSC with five World Cup victories in a row. Matty Hong, a Boulder native, who just sent his first V14 in Hueco Tanks, TX, will be climbing along with Ramon Puigblanque, ranked number 2.

This should be an amazing weekend. Info and tickets can be purchased at the main WC Boulder website. 

A little background 

The International Federation of Sport Climbing was founded in 2007 to provide and international, unbiased body to govern climbing competitions, which have been held in one form or another since the 40's. Every year the IFSC holds competitions around the world in the categories of Lead, Bouldering and Speed climbing. Athletes are ranked by judges using a scoring system based on performance. For more information, visit the IFSC website. 
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