Rock & Sky: A blog about a bunch of stuff.

 
So far this year the Shawangunks, or the "Gunks" of NY have been a pivotal part of my climbing season. This past weekend marked my third trip out this year, the first trip holding my very first trad lead (No, I haven't written about that yet. It's stewing... give me time!) and this past weekend hosting a mini east coast tweetup - or #NovGunksEx according to @ajsilver...
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Photo by Dave F.
Our crew consisted of @BillUrbanski, @PartickGensel, @Taxnerdatplay, @AJSilver, @MtnSquirrel, Laurel's family, and friend Sara + kids. It was so awesome to see everyone together for the weekend. I'd never met Laurel in person. I was delighted to discover she is shorter than I am :) Always looking for ladies I can learn from. I get to see her again this week in Joshua Tree. We all spent quality time on the rock and at the camp site, proving again to ourselves that climbing is so much more than climbing.

My biggest take home message from this weekend was the ability to bail. I'm new at the trad leading thing, and while I want to try as many things as I can, I often get myself into places I can't get out of. That's frustrating for me. As usual, it's the fear standing in my way, not the climb. I lead all but the last move of a 5.6 (good for the sand bagged Gunks), the first pitch (off route) of Madam G, and bailed off of the second pitch of Easy V in the dark. All were legitimate places and reasons to quit, and I didn't have to leave any gear. I just got really frustrated at my failed attempts to grow. It didn't hit me till the drive home - those weren't failed attempts. Three months ago I would have laughed at the thought of leading trad. Now I'm bailing off of a Gunks 5.6. I've grown so much. Not every step has to be big, it's the fact that I keep pushing myself.

I'm sitting in bed right now, all packed for JTree, thinking about the steps I'll take there. As always, my priority is people, but after meeting all the bodies behind the avatars, I wouldn't mind trying my hand at a nice 5.7 crack...

:)
 


Comments

patrick link
11/09/2010 20:33

Bailing is not failing! Knowing when to quit before you can't is a great safety tool. You did a greaat job leading dave anf aj up easy v, and making safety decisions for the team. Looking forward to seeing you send in the west.

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dave link
11/10/2010 08:26

You rocked your leads this weekend... I can't speak to Rhododendron, but the bad beta on Madame G wasn't anything we could control...

You absolutely nailed the first pitch of Easy V... I know, I cleaned every bomber placement ... except that one tricam :) As for the third pitch, it was DARK. Like nearly black. I was a bit nervous about seconding that, nevermind leading it! As Patrick said, bailing is not failing... good decisions are a part of the game.

Happy to have climbed with you... you can lead me any day!

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Laurel Fan link
11/18/2010 11:17

It was really fun to meet you and climb with you, both at the Gunks and JT! Thanks for helping to make both of those trips so awesome.

I am quite the advocate of bailing and cheating effectively and efficiently.

For one, if you look at cragging as training for mountains, straight up climbing ability isn't as important as being able to get up and down before it gets dark, starts snowing etc. And knowing when to stop going up and start going down.

For another, even if you just want to climb harder routes, you have to try routes harder than you can onsight on lead. One way to do that is to find a ropegun and TR. The more fun (I think) way is to attempt to lead stuff you're not sure you can do, knowing that when you hit something "too hard", you can hangdog or aid to the top, climb another route to retrieve your gear, downclimb, lower off a $4 bail biner, etc.

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